Floyd Longley Oral History
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ORAL HISTORY PROJECT OF THE MARIN COUNTY FREE LIBRARY Anne T. Kent California Room Original recording available at the Anne T. Kent California Room © All materials copyright Marin County Free Library. Transcript made available for research purposes only. All rights are reserved to the Marin County Free Library. Requests for permission to quote for publication should be addressed to the: Anne T. Kent California Room Marin County Free Library 3501 Civic Center Dr. #427 San Rafael, California, 94903 |
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FL: In my time, the Owl always tied up at the wharf. The only trouble we had
about deep water was when we were coming in from San Francisco with a full
load we had to be sure and come at high tide and be sure we were in the channel.
The funny part of it was that with the flowing of the tide it would change
the channel and I remember many times we crossed the bar and have the boat
bumped on the bar as it came over and I can remember a few times when it stuck
when it bumped on the bar and they had to wait then for another tide to get
it off.
CE: You mean you’d have to wait for six hours for --
FL: For another tide, maybe have to wait a full cycle for a -- to get a high
tide to get it off.
CE: Would you avoid the Potato Patch coming in to San Francisco?
FL: Yes, we’d come up into the North Channel.
CE: Did you have any close calls?
FL: I never did.
CE: Did the Owl to your knowledge have some?
FL: I think they had some pretty rough trips at times.
CE: Rain or shine, did they have a regular schedule?
FL: Yes, they had a regular schedule. What they tried to do was every weekend
they tried to leave San Francisco sometime on Saturday, to get up to Bolinas
on Saturday, and then they’d go back Sunday afternoon so people could
come up and spend the weekend in Bolinas. That was a normal thing for people.
CE: All right, go back a moment, you told us what you would take over from
Bolinas when you went to San Francisco, what would you bring back on those
routine trips, groceries, supplies?
FL: Right, all kinds of groceries and supplies and all kinds of building materials.
We’d have cement in the hold. I remember working unloading the hold,
they’d have maybe 30 or 35 tons of cement. In those days cement was in
hundred pound bags and they were cloth bags and working down in that hot hold
with cement dust it was almost unbelievable the misery you’d go through
to unload thirty tons of cement. Then they’d put lumber on the deck.
And they’d bring fresh meat, vegetables, and all sorts of food on the
boat.
CE: What was the skipper Petar like?
FL: Louis Petar, he was a great guy, he was a real fine gentleman. And Arthur
Bourne was the engineer.
CE: Part of the same Bourne ranch?
FL: He was the younger brother of Pete Bourne and he was quite a guy, too.
It was real fun sailing on the old Owl in those days. Arthur Bourne had a son
my age and we chummed around together and that’s how I got to work on
the boat. I say work on the boat, there wasn’t any salary involved, it
was just work. Although when they unloaded the boat we got paid 50 cents an
hour for unloading the boat. But making trips like going out to the Farallons
as a deckhand and that sort of thing, it was just done for the fun and experience.
CE: When you mentioned earlier about taking a group of Stanford students there,
was that to study the bird life?
FL: Yes, to see the bird life. At that time there were I think 13 families
living on the island out there and they ran the lighthouse and they had some
boats and I think they were equipped to do a limited amount of life saving.
In those days they called it Life Saving Services instead of Coast Guard.
CE: We had the delight of interviewing two women who had lived out there. One
woman had lived twenty years on the light; her dad was the keeper of the light,
and fascinating stories.
FL: Well, they had a school out there and they had gardens and their problem
was water.
CE: Did you go on the island? And up to the lighthouse?
FL: Oh, yes, we went up and all over the lighthouse and all over the livable
part of the island. Even at that time I don’t remember if the east part
or the north part of the island was a bird preserve, you couldn’t go
out on there. But their difficulty was water and they had to catch every drop
of water that they had in cisterns and store it. They had big area that was
concreted and big tanks that they would run the water into to catch it.
CE: One of these women, I forget who, talked about a mule they had there and
every time -- In her early days the supply boat came once every three months,
remember, Mrs. Kent? And they’d hoot, you know, and that mule would hear
that and start running away because that meant he had to go to work, you know
to carry the supplies from the dock.
FL: Yeah, I remember they had like a little railroad and they had some push
cars that they pushed along the top.
CE: Well, now it’s all controlled by the Point Reyes Bird Observatory
people --
FL: There’s no one living there now.
CE: No. But they go out and stay, these naturalists, for a spell and look at
the birds. At one time I understand Bolinas was quite a thriving boat building
community, of course that was before your day.
FL: Yes, much before my day.
CE: Had you heard any of those stories down near McKennan’s Landing?
Lots of boats were built down there.
FL: I believe they were all small boats and mostly lighters, I don’t
believe they were ocean-going boats built there. But you know originally, some
of the original timber that went into San Francisco was cut up in that area
and they brought it down to what is now known as the Wilkins ranch by ox carts
and then they transferred it to lighters. Lighters were nothing but narrow
small draft barges and then they’d float it down to the channel and then
they’d load it on sailing boats and take it on in to San Francisco.
CE: A lot of the piers for the San Francisco Embarcadero were made from that
timber, I understand.
FL: A lot of the lumber that originally went down there was cut up there, too.
That whole area at one time had a lot of prime redwood on it. And you can find
evidence up in those hills of stumps that are 15, 20 feet in diameter where
they were redwood stumps. When we were kids we use to go up -- Well, one of
the things that we use to do from school was to go up into the Mine Gulch for
an annual school picnic.
CE: Was this the residue of the copper mine you’re talking about that
was on the Wilkins Ranch?
FL: Yes. And they had a shaft up in there and they had a little railroad that
they hauled the ore out on and it was, best of my knowledge, it was last worked
in World War I. Because I remember they used to haul the ore downtown in wagons
and then they transferred it onto the Owl and ship it on to the city. And if
you read in that history, I think it’s in that history, it will tell
about my grandfather being president of the mining company up there one time.
They started up in --
CE: This is Sam Clark?
FL: Yes. Like a lot of the other things he got involved with it fizzled out.
I think it’s in that history.
CE: Well, I know the Wilkins were talking a little bit about it yesterday.
They evidently gave lease rights, like mineral rights, to the companies who
did it.
FL: A bunch of the natives, a bunch of the old natives in Bolinas, got together
and formed a company and -- Oh, the name Cottingham comes to mind. He was one
of the old timers around there and my grandfather -- Apparently there were
two or three of them like that that had some college education and had the
ability to set up and organize a company. My grandfather was elected president
of it I know, it was a big deal as long as it lasted.
CE: Did you know both of your grandfathers? Did you know Sam Clark as well
as George W. Longley?
FL: No, no. My Grandfather Clark died in 1902 and I was born in nine. But I
knew my Grandfather Longley for three or four years. Incidentally they moved
to San Rafael and he died here in San Rafael.
CE: Well, now getting back to you as a young boy, did you have a horse?
FL: At one time I had a horse yes. Saddle horse. It was trained to herd cattle.
CE: Did you get involved in all facets of dairy ranching yourself?
FL: Well, I got into -- No, I never --
CE: Did you milk cows?
FL: Oh, yes, I did everything that involved work on a ranch. Such as, milking,
herding cattle, cleaning barns and feeding cattle and that sort of thing. I
was 15 when they got off the ranch and I swore then that I’d never set
foot on another ranch and I never did.
CE: Well, this butcher shop of your dad’s, you worked in it after school
you said?
FL: No, no, I worked in the general merchandise store.
CE: Did you ever work in your dad’s?
FL: Oh, no, that -- He owned the shop about 1900 and I didn’t work in
the store until about 1921, ‘22, somewhere along in there. See, because
I was born in 1909 and I was still in grammar school when I worked there.
CE: Tell me a little bit about that butcher business. Did he run any accounts
or was everything cash and carry?
FL: They ran accounts.
CE: Did he ever get stuck?
FL: Oh, yes, this was normal.
CE: Particularly 1929, ‘30 --
FL: No, he wasn’t involved in the business then. My dad by that time
had the ranch -- No, it was the Francisco Ranch and as I say he sold that in
1925 and moved to town but at that time I worked in the general merchandise
store and yes they had charge accounts and a lot of them went flat. That was
a bad time for everybody and anybody that had credit accounts suffered something
terrible. I was going to tell you about my dad, talking about having this butcher
cart. This was about 1900, ‘02,’03, ‘04, and he would go
out to the farms and the women would come out with a big dishpan and they’d
buy -- give me a piece of this, a piece of that, piece of this, piece of that,
and then they’d ask for free soup bones and then when they got the free
soup meat then they’d want vegetables to make the soup with, all free.
He said that he’d fill a large size dishpan with good cuts of meat plus
the soup for the soup and everything for 50 to 75 five cents.
CE: That’s when the dollar was worth a dollar though.
FL: Yeah, it was worth more than a dollar in those days. That’s when
people couldn’t get hold of a dollar.
CE: What was it like during the depression for you as a young man? Did it change
what you were going to do in your life?
FL: I hadn’t planned what I was going to do at that point in time. I
was just out of high school.
CE: Where did you go to high school?
FL: Tamalpais.
CE: How would you get there every day?
FL: We went by bus from Bolinas. I hadn’t planned what I wanted to do
and in those days if you had a high school diploma you were better than the
average kid, so I worked in the store. In fact I got to be Assistant Manager
of the store.
CE: This is the general store?
FL: Yes. Before I left there in 1936.
CE: And who owned it again?
FL: Joe Petar. He was the brother of Louie Petar who had the boat. In fact
they owned the boat together I understand.
CE: What ever happened to that old boat? Did he sell it?
FL: They finally sold it. It was a good sturdy boat but it was too slow.
CE: What powered it? Was it gas?
FL: It had two -- It was twin screw, it had two gasoline engines, but it was
too costly to run. The boat was a cargo boat, it would have been fine for short
hauls where it didn’t have to waste too much gas and energy to push the
thing along because it was just like, almost like, pushing a barge. It was
so wide -- It had a real wide beam, it was about 65-feet long and it must have
had about a 25-foot, 30-foot, beam maybe. It was just like a bathtub.
CE: I have a photograph of that loaded with a lot of passengers. Remember John
Beales gave it to us Mrs. Kent? He calls it the Immigrants, they’re all
dressed up with their little suitcases, they look like there all going over
to Ellis Island. I guess they were going to the city for a weekend in town.
FL: I saw Johnny not too long ago.
CE: Did you?
FL: Yes. You know he worked for the telephone company, too.
CE: Floyd has just shown us a lovely old photograph that looks like it’s
in the 1890’s and it’s in the Eucalyptus Grove and it looks like
a family picnic. Tell us about that.
FL: Well, my grandfather having been raised in the east and been around quite
a bit, he was quite a horseman and he had, amongst other things, a stable where
he raised blooded horses.
CE: Now are we talking about Sam Clark?
FL: Yes. Then he had this big grove of eucalyptus trees out in the back part
of the ranch where he set up a picnic area and all during the summer the various
local organizations and the local people and one thing or another, went there
for picnics. And it is interesting that the grove had grown up big enough to
use at that time because at the time he was Supervisor he was instrumental
in importing eucalyptus trees in from Australia to plant in Marin County. They
planted them all along the county roads and various places.
CE: What, for windbreaks?
FL: For windbreaks and then for along the roads they used them to reinforce
the banks so that during the wet weather the banks wouldn’t wash out.
CE: I heard yesterday from Helen Wilkins, too, that they imported a lot of
Monterey Cypress from Pacific Grove to add a little color. Downtown Bolinas
was pretty bare. Do you agree with that?
FL: Yes, they did import them, but the eucalyptus trees was for lumber and
for supporting the road beds. And then I don’t know how my grandfather
got a hold of so many trees but he planted a whole grove in there primarily
for a windbreak and then they used them later for a picnic area.
CE: Did you ever hear of the Strain Brothers, the Strain family?
FL: Yes, I knew them quite well.
CE: Helen Wilkins said that the young boys got ten cents a piece for planting
a lot of those eucalyptus. What was there connection with your ranch, where
was their place?
FL: Well, the original family that I can remember lived up towards the Randall
Ranch; they were one ranch or so from the Randall Ranch. Actually there were
two Strain families; I think they were second cousins or something. Then there
was another Strain family that lived downtown that we knew quite well and they
were kin some way related to the Lauffs and then the Lauffs were related to
us through the Briones and this goes back to what I said, at one time everyone
in Bolinas was related. If they were Spanish or English people they were related.
CE: Well, wasn’t Bolinas at one time the most thriving community in Marin?
FL: Yes it was bigger than San Rafael at one time.
CE: By the lumbering, the shipping?
FL: Yes. I think the original development was for lumber for building San Francisco.
Of course it was kind of isolated from San Rafael. San Rafael grew faster and
they had a horse stage, old stagecoaches that ran from Bolinas to San Rafael.
One time during my dad’s early days he worked as a driver on the stage.
CE: How long a ride would that be? Several hours wouldn’t it?
FL: I think they used to make it in a day. Half way over -- What is Alpine
Dam now? There was a big ranch down in the bottom of the dam known as the Liberty
Ranch and my aunt ran a hotel there at one time. Mostly a restaurant.
CE: Was it called Liberty?
FL: Liberty Ranch. They ran the stage from Bolinas.
CE: What was your aunt’s name?
CL: Her name was Marsha Clark. She married an Italian fellow, that’s
how I got into the Italians. He was an excellent cook and they had this old
ranch house that they developed into a restaurant and the stage used to come
over there, in either direction, from San Rafael to Bolinas and Bolinas to
San Rafael and they’d stop over and eat at the old Liberty Ranch and
then they’d go on with their trip.
CE: Now that ranch would be the bottom of Alpine Lake today?
FL: The bottom of Alpine Lake today.
CE: Any photographs extant of that place, to your knowledge?
FL: I have a photograph but I don’t know where it is.
CE: All right, but do you think you might find it? Because we’ve heard
of Liberty’s haven’t we Mrs. Kent?
AK: Yes, it’s on the map.
CE: Looking at old photographs and Floyd has found one of his Grandmother Clark’s
house. Tell us where that is again when your going south on the road into Bolinas
it’s on the left side near the water.
FL: No – It’s on the right hand side of the road going into Bolinas
between the Bolinas Creek and the Bolinas School. And the old house was moved
up to that location which was the old Crane property, Crane Brothers that are
down here in the bank are the descendants of that family, and it was about
1860 or thereabouts that the house was moved.
CE: From where?
FL: It was moved from the Grinter Ranch and the Grinter Ranch is the location
of the current discussion about finding Drake’s fort. I can remember
when I was a kid that the -- What I think that they are considering was Drake’s
fort was a fishpond.
CE: What do you mean fishpond?
FL: Well, the Grinter brothers raised trout and they had a flume that they
ran from the present Bolinas Creek all the way across that property and they
had two ponds.
CE: Were they cemented?
FL: No, they were wood, they had wooden casings around them and then they were
filled with mud and with salt water around the outside of them. They had the
water ran into the first pond and then it ran into the second pond and then
it picked up another flume for about 200 yards down to two more fish ponds
that were down to where the houses were, the old houses, and the houses were
on the shore right opposite Kent Lake. The old --
CE: Kent Lake? Do you mean Kent Island?
FL: Kent Island. What’s the difference between an island and a lake,
one sticks up and one sticks down.
CE: I was just trying to get located, Floyd. Oh, I see, so we’re going
south again along that bay side there.
FL: We’re right on the shore north of that little hill before you go
into Bolinas. And that old house was constructed of native redwood and how
they moved it, I don’t know, but apparently what they did was to lay
planking and then use rollers and use horses to pull the house on rollers and
they moved it for fully a half a mile. Two stories. The house was so well constructed
it stood it very well.
CE: Why did they move it, somebody bought it and they didn’t want it
where it is that it?
FL: Somebody wanted it in this new location. Now I don’t know whether
it was the Crane family that moved this or whether it was part of the old Briones
family or who it was that moved it.
CE: But you think that Dr. Aubrey Neesham who is doing this archeological dig
there might be digging around the old fishpond?
FL: Well, I haven’t seen the spot he’s digging in but from the
description I’ve heard, from what some of the natives up there tell me,
I would guess he’s digging in the old fishpond. Now there could have
been something there before there were fishponds but --
CE: Well, its very interesting sidelight to that whole story.
FL: I’ve got a lot of pictures here but they’re mostly of people
and their families.
CE: But that one on the Liberty is a rare thing. Do you have a micro lens?
We ought to take a copy of that. Now we’ve got to get you out of high
school, Floyd, and get you on the road or Mrs. Kent will be upset with me.
FL: It was quite a job to get me out of high school.
CE: We’ve got to get you into the telephone company. You graduated from
Tam High, then what did you do?
FL: I worked in the grocery store until the depression came and Radio Corporation
had a big Trans-Pacific receiving station out there and not knowing what I
wanted to do and knowing that I didn’t want to be a grocery clerk all
my life, I got some construction work out RCA. Over a period of years I guess
I worked about five years off and on and I decided I kind of liked --
CE: Communications?
FL: Communications work. So I came to San Rafael to the telephone company and
applied for a job and got to work for the telephone company in 1929 and you
heard what happened in 1930 and ‘31, so I went back to Bolinas, back
home, and I worked in the grocery store and worked at the radio station until
1936. In 1936 the Telephone Company called and said they’d like to take
me back again but all they had to offer me was a janitor job and I said well
that’s alright, I said, I’m not too proud. They said we can’t
really promise you anything but it could develop into a better job because
we think that the country is on the upsurge and so forth. So I worked as a
janitor for four or five months and things picked up and they transferred me
over to San Francisco in an installation crew and they were just preparing
market office for dial telephones, so I worked on the dial conversion crew.
Then from that outside job I moved inside to central office work and I worked
in central office until the time that the war started and by the time the war
started I had completed the Central Office School, the Switching School. I
got real interested in signal corps in the army and you know the old story
with the country boy and the flag waving, so I fell in behind the flag and
went and joined the army. By that time I had been married a couple of years
CE: Tell us your wife’s name.
FL: I married a very lovely girl who outranked me by the fact that she was
a schoolteacher and she had started teaching in Marin County out in Point Reyes
area and then moved into San Rafael. Taught here in West End in San Rafael.
CE: And what is her name?
FL: Her maiden name was Eva Rhodes. I enlisted as a private in the army and
went through all the throes of becoming a regular soldier and within a year
I had a chance to go to Officers Candidate School and get my commission. After
I was commissioned and since I had quite a background in the telephone company
and RCA and communications generally and I was a little bit older than the
average soldier. Incidentally, it’s interesting when I went to OCS I
had a pretty rough time having a limited high school education. I got thrown
in a class of college graduates that hadn’t had their last summer camp.
Half of them were from MIT and the other half from Texas A& M.
CE: You burned a lot of midnight oil.
FL: There were five of us that were in the group that were not either Texas
A & M or MIT, so we burned a lot of midnight oil, finally got the commission.
My first assignment was up to Fort J in New York, Governor’s Island,
and I was only there a short time when the Signal Officer went off on an emergency
leave for one reason or another and I had two weeks more commission service
than the other officer who was there, so I became acting Signal Officer in
Fort J which was quite a little job for comparatively new officer. I had only
been an officer for three or four months. So I lived through that. Then a call
came and we went overseas --
CE: Where?
FL: Went to England. I landed in Barrydocks in Wales and at that time they
were forming a Service Battalion, the first time this has been done, to serve
the build up for D Day. So I went into that Service Battalion as a Signal Officer
and I took over the Signal Office at Tidwiff Garrison in Southern England,
which was in the British Southern Command with headquarters at Salisbury. So
from there I went up to Northern England after the war had progressed and became
Port Signal Officer in ? , Kinston, which was quite an experience, and from
there I went over to Paris and I became the Post Signal Officer for the American
headquarters in Paris which was an interesting assignment.
CE: Did you ever see Eisenhower?
FL: No, he was already gone by that time. I was in Com Z and he was in Shafe.
So he was over in Germany by then. Matter of fact I went to France about a
week after VJ Day. I didn’t want to go up too soon because they were
shooting over there you know and I didn’t like to get too near that.
CE: Talk with you today, times running out, but we certainly thank you for
contributing more to the history of the Bolinas area and I know since your
retirement you’re busy with your photography and your Shrine efforts
and it has indeed been a pleasure to meet with you today.
FL: Thank you very much, Carla.